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Design and Material Culture

Annie Stannard

Annie Stannard, a recent MA graduate from the V&A/RCA History of Design Programme, is a writer and design researcher whose interests include twentieth century fashion, women’s histories, youth culture, and gender histories with particular reference to consumption, visual culture and the media.

Graduating from the University of the Arts London with a First-Class honours degree in Surface Design, specialising in print, Annie pursued further courses in knitting and weaving. This background in textiles has informed her research approach during the course of her MA projects and has led to her undertaking historical reconstructions and engaging in experimental embodied wearing practices, providing additional means to access the unwritten knowledge surrounding dress histories.

She was the recipient of the RCA Gillian Naylor Essay Prize (2021) for outstanding scholarship in an investigation of a twentieth century women's satin gym-set from the V&A Museum's Collections. 

Her dissertation has focused on the history of women’s swim caps in Britain during 1920-1970, examining the role that the swim cap played in constructs of gender, changing notions of femininity, and systems of power amongst sporting women. Her research into the design changes in swim caps across this time offers interesting new perspectives into the regulation of women and how the swim cap itself became a vehicle for patriarchal notions that led to the control, constraint, and compliance of the female swimmer.


Image: Lucy Snowe, The Swimmer in a Pond, 2018, © Lucy Snowe

Having developed a particular interest in collections relating to textiles/fashion and an eagerness to uncover the stories of objects and their individual makers/wearers, Annie has been in a position to combine materiality and gender to provide new insight into the often hidden histories of women.

Outlined below are examples of how her research has attempted to engage with the public, sharing her findings via a digital archive, The Natator, documenting the design history of swim caps and the notion of 'governing by design'; and sharing the story about how a women's gym-set negotiated the conflict between control and autonomy, also between wholesomeness and sensuality, at a time when women's exercise challenged society's traditional views of femininity and motherhood.

THE NATATOR ARCHIVE - Digital archive and open access resource for research into swimming caps.
Launch Project
THE NATATOR ARCHIVE - Digital archive and open access resource for research into swimming caps.
THE NATATOR INSTAGRAM - A small selection of images from the archive's Instagram page
Launch Project
THE NATATOR INSTAGRAM - A small selection of images from the archive's Instagram page

The Natator (the swimmer) is a digital archive and open-access resource that documents the materials and resources gathered from a wide range of archives and collections relating to swim caps. This venture is intended to assist future research into swim caps and engage the public in this new area of design history. The journal accompanying it highlights how this small item of clothing merits its own unique history based upon the extraordinary number of comments/articles written about it since its creation.

An article about the uniform of the Women's League of Health and Beauty, written for the Costume Society. Read more
Launch Project
An article about the uniform of the Women's League of Health and Beauty, written for the Costume Society. Read more
Members of the Women’s League of Health and Beauty, c.1930's, The Women’s League of Health and Beauty Archives
Members of the Women’s League of Health and Beauty, c.1930's, The Women’s League of Health and Beauty Archives
Women’s League of Health and Beauty, Gym Set, ca. 1930's., Textiles and Fashion Collection, V&A Museum T.240 to F-1984.
Launch Project
Women’s League of Health and Beauty, Gym Set, ca. 1930's., Textiles and Fashion Collection, V&A Museum T.240 to F-1984.
The Women's League of Health and Beauty Blouse and Knicker Pattern, c.1930s, The Women’s League of Health and Beauty Archives
Launch Project
The Women's League of Health and Beauty Blouse and Knicker Pattern, c.1930s, The Women’s League of Health and Beauty Archives
In reproducing a facsimile uniform from an early League sewing pattern, I attempted to replicate the conditions of the time as closely as possible, using a hand-cranked Singer sewing machine made in 1
In reproducing a facsimile uniform from an early League sewing pattern, I attempted to replicate the conditions of the time as closely as possible, using a hand-cranked Singer sewing machine made in 1936.

Research into a 1930's gym-set from the V&A's Collections, the official uniform of the Women's League of Health and Beauty, led to Annie uncovering the first and most significant mass keep-fit system in the UK.

Annie conducted a historical reconstruction, producing a version of this uniform herself so that she might better understand the challenges and implications around making it – also, discovering how it works as a functional object when carrying out the League’s exercises.

The League was extremely influential in forming the basis of the modern approach to fitness and Mary Bagot Stack, its founder, is considered a pioneer in the development and spread of female physical recreation in Britain and around the world – bringing new ways of living and new freedoms for women. In attempting to share the untold story of Mary and her League of women (166,000 in GB alone), Annie is campaigning for her achievements to be recognised with a Blue Plaque - the League now known as FL-Exercise continues under the auspices of her great grand-daughter, Saba Douglas Hamilton.

This uniform is a wonderful example of how through the material history of a gym-set, one can uncover the hidden lives of remarkable women. To learn more about the story behind this unlikely garment, see this link to the article written for the Costume Society.

Gillian Naylor Essay Prize 2021